A Nutcracker Night at the Bolshoi Theatre in Moscow
It was a very cold snowy November 2004 Tuesday night in Moscow. The temperature outside was minus 10 C but I was ready for my first ballet, and what a way to start, in the world renowned Bolshoi Theatre. I was not to be disappointed, in fact I was mesmerised from the first majestic rise of the elaborate gold laced curtain to the very end.
The Bolshoi Theatre was founded in 1776 when the very first regular opera and ballet troupe in Моsсоw was organized by Peter Urussov and Mikhail Medoks.
In 1780 the theatre moved to а stone building on the place of the modern Bolshoi Theatre, aptly named "Petrovsky Theatre" after the grand street it was built in. The initial repertoire of the theatre consisted of drama, opera, and ballet performances, with the emphasis being on operas, one reason why the Petrovsky Theatre was often called the "Opera House" at the time.
In 1805, the theatre experienced its' first fire and was burnt to the ground. In 1824, а new theatre, named Bolshoi Petrovsky, was built by architect О. Bove. It was opened on January 18, 1825. It came to be recognised as one of the most beautiful theatrical buildings in the world because of its perfect classical architecture. It is an impressive building, particularly from the front, where eight grand columns frame the entrance, which faces the Kremlin.
Fire again ravaged the Bolshoi Theatre in March 1853 when all but the columns and the external walls were destroyed. The building was restored and slightly renovated by the architect Albert Kavos and was reopened in 1856. This is the structure I had the privilege to enter on Tuesday night. The traditions of national Russian Ballet, going back as far as the 14th century are certainly well preserved in this magnificent theatre.
The interior of the theatre is breathtaking, with gold leaf adorning five tiers of viewing balconies, all with a perfect view of the huge stage and the orchestra pit before it.
It took some navigating finding my seat, having had to go up two flights of stairs and then down another at the end of the floor, and then line up to discard coats, gloves and scarves to the helpful septuagenarian ladies manning the cloak stalls on each level. But I eventually found my front row seat, padded in red velvet where I sat in great expectation.
I was amazed at the audience mix, simple Russians amongst foreign tourists of various ages and backgrounds.
The ballet I was about to experience for the first time in my life was The Nutcracker, a ballet in two acts based on a story "The Nutcracker and the King of Mice" written by E.T.A. Hoffman. Although what I was about to see on the stage was a little different in detail from the original story, the basic plot remained the same; Essentially a Christmas story of a young German girl who dreamed of a Nutcracker Prince defending her and seeking her admiration in a fierce battle against a Mouse King with seven heads. It sounded interesting to me, but to be honest, I was really there for the music. I was in for a surprise.
In 1891-2, the legendary choreographer Marius Petipa commissioned Peter Llyich Tchaikovsky to write the music for the Nutcracker Ballet, originally performed at the Mariinsky Theatre of Russia, home of the famed Kirov Ballet. The Nutcracker didn't make its way to Western Europe until the 1930's and to America until 1940, performed by Ballet Russe. Is has come to be one of the most popular and most often performed ballets of all time. It is said that Tchaikovskys' score was the most spectacular aspect of the ballet, it was the third and last of his great ballets, but I found the dancing equally exciting and the visual aspects enchanting.
Though there were several scenes in earlier acts that were mesmerising, I felt the magical music and superb dancing presented in the "Waltz of Flowers" scene would enchant even the hard-hearted. The fifty piece orchestra sounded fantastic and the sight of the exquisite dancers dressed in different colours representing multiple flowers, with cavaliers and consorts seemingly floating throughout the palace garden, was amazing. It seemed the whole ballet company was involved and I found it very moving.
The Grand Pas de Deux (the party, the end scene) was nothing short of spectacular. The Sugar Plum Fairy and the Nutcracker Prince delighted the audience with a superb demonstration of beauty and graceful dancing. They performed confidently yet with such feeling and the result was enthralling. This was what I thought ballet should be like, totally beautiful to see and experience. The hairs on the back of my neck were titillated more often than not.
My friends and I met in the snow and ice outside the Bolshoi Theatre, breathless, not from the chill in the air but from the experience I'm sure none of us will forget.
A night at the Bolshoi in Moscow is a must if you are ever in the city during the ballet season.
Ron Welsh
Moscow